The Emotional Journey of Riding Solo (Mostly) Across WA

It was a solo, long-distance, “bucket-list ride” meant to inspire others, and prove to herself that she could ride across Washington alone. 

On May 26, Let’s Go Program Coordinator Shannon Mangan headed east from La Push on the Pacific coastline toward Idaho. Her 650-mile, 12-day route included portions of the Olympic Discovery Trail and the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail.

“I want to inspire others to take wild bikepacking trips of their own,” Shannon says. “If I could make this trip as a second-year bikepacker, then others can, too.”

Long days in the saddle enabled Shannon to experience the profound joy of simple pleasures: a visit from a friend, the luxurious comfort of cheap motels, the satisfaction of gas station corn dogs. She also persevered through moments of loneliness, wrong turns, and torrential rain. 

Riding across Washington isn’t for everyone, but it’s a trip you’ll remember forever. Read Shannon’s trip report below, and get her gear tips at the bottom. 

Day 1: La Push to Forks, 16 miles

My spouse dropped me off in the rain at First Beach in La Push on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula in the northeastern corner of the state. I was nervous but excited to begin after months of planning. 

A couple dogs chased me out of town as I headed toward Forks on La Push Road/State Route 110. Sixteen miles later, I checked into my AirBnB and bought dinner at Three Rivers Resort. It was an easy start to what I knew would be a challenging adventure. 

Day 2: Forks to Littleton Horse Camp, 26 miles 

It rained most of the day. I spent much of the time on shoulders or sharing a car lane while riding along U.S. Highway 101. Just before the town of Sapho, I turned onto the paved Olympic Discovery Trail. The beginning of the ODT transports you deep into the woods, and you can’t hear a single car. 

I intended to stay at Fairholme Campground but learned in the morning that it has no guaranteed bike camping. I spotted Littleton Horse Camp on the map and headed there, hoping for the best. There was a toilet but no water, no shower, or amenities. 

Day 3: Littleton Horse Camp to Sequim State Park, 72 miles

Most of my stuff was wet from two days of steady rain, so I reorganized my bags to separate wet from dry before rejoining the Olympic Discovery Trail. I passed Lake Crescent and expected to arrive in Port Angeles in two-and-a-half hours to fill up on food and water. Instead, it took almost four hours because I made a wrong turn. Luckily I found a Texaco near Lake Sutherland and I hydrated and fueled myself.

The Olympic Discovery Trail between Port Angeles and Sequim is beautiful and hilly, although I walked my bike up several steep hills on the way to Sequim Bay State Park. 

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This park is amazing. The camp sites, beach views, and bathrooms were glamorous compared to my rough accommodations at the horse camp. I took a hot shower and used the hand dryers to dry my bibs, socks, and gloves.

Day 4: A Detour Home to Dry Out 

I got rolling around 11 a.m. and it immediately started raining. Within 30 minutes, all my layers were soaked. It got worse when I left the trail for Hwy 101, where I got pelted by rain spray from passing cars. 

Around 12:30 p.m., I stopped at Fat Smitty’s restaurant to warm up and shelter from the rain. An hour passed and the rain worsened. So I went with my gut and made a decision to dry out at home in Seattle instead of camping at Kitsap State Park.

I caught the Clallam 123 (The Strait Shot) bus at the Discovery Bay stop outside Fat Smitty’s. The bus took me to the Bainbridge Island Ferry Terminal, where I took the ferry to downtown Seattle. From there it was a quick trip home. Sometimes you gotta improvise.

Day 5: Rest Day

One day ahead of schedule, I dried my gear and prepared for the long ride up and over the Cascades toward Idaho.

Day 6: Seattle to Lake Easton State Park, 78 miles

The Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail between North Bend and Lake Easton is uphill most of the way on firm gravel, with a steady two-percent to three-percent railroad grade. This is where I got my start on gravel and distance riding, and I recommend this trail to anyone who wants to try gravel riding.

Near the summit of Snoqualmie Pass the route passes through the two-mile-long Snoqualmie Tunnel. The tunnel is exciting, but also cold, dark, and spooky if you’re alone. Bring a jacket and lights. No light? No go. 

Exiting the tunnel, it’s a fast descent to Lake Easton State Park–one of my favorite camping spots in the state. My head and legs were rested, and I was refreshed and excited to keep cycling east. 

Day 7: Lake Easton State Park to a hotel in Ellensburg, 40 miles

Almost rolled over a rattlesnake. And then another. I went through three more shorter tunnels before arriving in Ellensburg, where I got a room at one of the cheapest motels in town. It felt like a palace. If it's in your budget, I recommend crashing in a motel occasionally. I fell asleep at 8 p.m., and it was an excellent end to one of the longest and most tiring days of my trip.

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Day 8: Ellensburg to Wanapum State Park, 36 miles

I passed through the staging area of the Ellensburg Pride Parade and wanted to linger and enjoy the festivities but, alas, I had to reach the Columbia River before dark. Onward.

The Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail heading east out of Ellensburg was softer, looser, and slower than to the west but I pushed through. The campground at Wanapum State Park was green, lovely, and comfortable although it has a reputation for being windy. The sunset was breathtaking. If not pressed for time, I could have stayed a couple extra days.

Day 9: Wanapum State Park to Othello Hotel, 40 miles

I awoke to a beautiful sunrise, packed, and headed out. The route east of Wanapum State Park is remote and services are limited so you must be prepared to repair your own bike and have all the supplies and tools necessary. I spent most of the day on roads, with a mix of gravel and pavement. 

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Othello is my dream town. It’s small, with a centralized town center and a superb park. I ordered a big meal at Ramiro’s Restaurant, then headed across the street to stock up on bread and pastries for the next day. I checked into my hotel at 3 p.m. and washed my stinky and dirty shirt in the sink with shampoo. 

Day 10: Othello to Potholes State Park, 25 miles

My route brought me through the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge. I tried to ride on hiking trails through the refuge but they were rough and thorny and I walked a lot. Stay on the main road through the refuge! 

The good news? I had pastries and cold water my entire ride toward Potholes State Park.

O'Sullivan Dam Road, the only route to Potholes, has almost no shoulder. But I made it safely and discovered a gas station and convenience store with hot foods nearby. I got some corn dogs and ate them at my campsite. High winds prevented me from setting up my tent so I laid on a tarp under a tree until the winds calmed. I was excited for Day 11 because my friend Melanie would be joining me.

Day 11, Potholes State Park to hotel in Ritzville, 45 miles

Melanie arrived in the morning and we stocked up on snacks at a gas station, tossed my bike in her car, and drove to the town of Warden, where we parked her car at the police station and rode onto the Palouse to Cascades trail. 

Having company for an entire day was a treat. I kept telling Melanie how happy I was. Then, six miles from Ritzville, as side winds slammed us, Melanie crashed at the bottom of a descent. Luckily, she wasn't badly injured and her bike still worked so after calming down and dusting off we rode onward to Ritzville. 

The hotel staff in Ritzville offered us extra towels because we looked dusty and beat up. After a shower, we feasted at a nearby Mexican restaurant. Simple pleasures are so important following a long day on the bike.

Day 12: Ritzville to Rosalia, 60 miles

Melanie’s spouse picked her up in the morning and I got a lift to the next town. I was alone again. 

The Rosalia City Park is located right off the Palouse to Cascades trail. I called ahead and got permission to camp there. With seven miles to go, my rear tire went flat. I did not anticipate my tubeless tires failing, and I made a mistake by only bringing one tube, no sealant, and no patch kit. I installed the tube, hoped I wouldn’t get another puncture, and completed my journey to Rosalia.

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After a big sandwich and a caffeinated beverage at Pine Creek Provisions I set up camp in the park. The sun was setting, and I had the whole place to myself. After a shower (park staff unlocked the showers for me), I began thinking about whether I should continue the journey or stop here. 

I didn’t have any more tubes or a patch kit. Also, I had biked to Idaho the year prior, so I knew that the remote stretch of trail ahead would be risky without flat protection. So I called my loved one, who agreed to pick me up the following day. This was the end of my 12-day adventure. 

Despite stopping short of Idaho, I was completely satisfied. The goal had been to push myself, to explore our beautiful state, and to escape the normalcy of everyday life for the wonders and challenges of the natural world.

Things Shannon Wishes She’d Packed:

• more chamois cream
• a first aid kit
• another tube or a patch kit

Things Shannon’s Glad She Packed:

• a Kula reusable antimicrobial pee cloth 
• pepper spray 
• pocket knife 
• a second pair of socks.

Bike Gear Setup

• Specialized Diverge Comp with 42 mm Specialized Pathfinder Pro tires
• Topeak 8L seat bag
• custom full-frame bag from Kat Litty Designs
• Swift Industries Zeitgeist handlebar bag. 
• Two feed bags (one from Ellum Bag Works, the other a Swift Industries Gibby Stem Bag)
• Craft Cadence Top Tube Bag.

Sleep System: 

• Sea to Summit Ether Light XT sleeping mat
• Pillow Strap pillow and pillow case 
• Sea To Summit Ultralight Quilt 
• Sea To Summit Reactor Fleece Sleeping Bag Liner

Hydration: 

• a 24-ounce bottle and a 1.5 liter Nalgene

Clothing: 

• one bibshorts
• two hooded sun shirts
• a merino thermal shirt
• thermal leggings
• one mid-layer jacket
• rain jacket
• cycling cap
• two pairs of underwear
• neck gaiter
• two pairs of socks
• clip-in bike shoes
• flip flops